Richard hesson surfers view

The story behind the hit surfing movie Chasing Mavericks! Surfing legend Frosty Hesson shares the story of his remarkably life and his extraordinary friendship with wunderkind Jay Moriarty. The surfers paddled near a channel where, in theory, they would avoid the monster waves that routinely hit other parts of the Northern California surf break, Mavericks.

But then a bump appeared on their horizon, and the ocean began to brew up something nasty. A rogue set — big, bombing foot waves — shifted direction. Relax and control your mind. Working as a big-wave pro surfer requires only that he be able to pack his bags and boards at the first hint of a huge swell — any place, any time, no matter what else he might have planned.

So, a year ago, Long hesitated when he heard about a movie casting call he might be right for. Some producers were making a film about Jay Moriarity, a Santa Cruz local who, in the s, made a name for himself at Mavericks, and they were looking for stunt doubles. But Long was worried about missing the big-wave winter season.

Richard hesson surfers view

And, within that small group, the surfers had to be able to act. The man behind the construction of a legend in the history of surfing is a Santa Cruz icon, too. He had a swimming and water polo career and was raised a Southern Baptist. Richard "Frosty" Hesson has never quit surfing, in its many angles. Share this article. Share on Facebook. Share on Reddit.

Throughout his life, he developed principles to live by, principles that would become the core tenets of his teaching philosophy. Most significantly, Frosty talks about how one of his best students, Jay Moriarity, used his philosophy to become a surfing phenomenon and whose life inspired the phrase, "Live like Jay. Affecting and poignant, Making Mavericks is a celebration of Hesson's determination to live with joy and purpose and his desire to help others do the same.